I was reading a couple different climbing blogs and articles last night- and coming across some pervasive attitudes that, in my opinion, really harm the sport. I figured a post like this was in order both to help build the climbing community among women and to clearly communicate my attitude towards climbing. Here are the most frequent questions I’ve gotten over the years about climbing.
Q. I have no upper body strength, how is this something I can do?
First of all- the “lack” of upper body strength is usually the number one concern in women. Especially when they show up at the gym with their hulking boyfriend who is pumped and ready to show off. It is true- as women, most of us have a discernible lack of upper body strength compared to our male compatriots, but this makes you a better climber. Honestly, because you are relying on your legs and your core for strength most women have a natural affinity towards climbing and have better technique, even if they aren’t growling their way to the top like some sort of overgrown Spiderman.
Q. So what makes a “good climber”?
There is an attitude you will find all throughout climbing- especially around people who take climbing as a serious hobby- the emphasis on grading. Climbing is graded in the U.S. on what is called the Yosemite Scale. It ranges from 5.0 (being the easiest) to 5.16 (the absolute hardest). Most good climbers top out at 5.12. Most people start climbing at a 5.5-5.6 level. Now- it’s easy to get sucked into this notion that to be a good climber, you must climb higher and higher grade climbs, it’s also easy to evaluate other climbers on the basis of their top grade. The problem is- when I’m standing at the bottom and watching two climbers- one is a woman, on a 5.6 and her technique is solid- using her legs, loose arms, graceful movements- and the other is a man on a 5.9, all arm pump, pull ups and grunting- who is the better climber? It’s the woman, regardless of grade. (I just used a man and woman because it’s a really common scenario- not to imply anything) but there is an attitude in climbing that get’s hung up on the grade accomplished instead of the ability as a climber. I think that emphasis detracts from the sport (except in competition which is totally different) and the focus should be elsewhere. I know for sure that it would open the sport up to more people to have this attitude kept in check.
Q. How do get started in climbing?
The easiest scenario- by far- is to find someone who already has experience. Ask around you’re mommy group, ask around your job- if someone you know is a climber, get them to take you. That can be hard to find (or the person you find is single, ready to mingle and would have told you he’s an astronaut in order to get some alone time with you- beware of him!). The next best option is the local climbing gym. Gyms can be really overwhelming, but you can learn the basics of the sport and make contact with people who are more experienced and can help you along. Ignore the skinny woman in the yoga pants doing 5.12’s with a crowd underneath her to watch her ass- she will make you feel miserable. Trust me, just pretend she doesn’t exist.
Q. Why is everyone better than me?
It sure feels that way. I’ve been climbing since I was eight and I feel this way all.the.time. Especially next to the darn yoga pant woman. But- this is why I think it can be so intimidating and this is the trickling down effect of that grading attitude I talked about. Climbing, in my opinion, isn’t about being good- it’s about getting outside, working with a partner, problem solving, stretching the limits of your body, challenging yourself in a concrete way, learning from other others…I could go on and on. The best climbers have this attitude and, remember this, the best teachers have this attitude. They exist for sure, just ignore the rest of them shouting out their grade levels like someone gives a rip.
Q. What makes climbing good for a mom?
Ahh- I never appreciated climbing so much until after I became a mom. First, it gives me a break. Second, it reconnects me to my husband- we work as a team, he is the most amazing climbing partner and that really helps us as a couple. Third, it gives my body a great workout- and we all know…okay except for the darn yoga pant girl…that we need it after being ravaged by baby. Fourth, as the baby grows- it gives me another way to stay connected and involved in his life. Fifth, climbing is so consuming, mentally, that I don’t worry about the baby for a second while I’m on the wall. The greatest advantage to being a mom and a climber? We can go on the weekdays when everybody else is still slaving away for the man.
Q. Should I just go to a gym or go outside?
Both. There are people who only climb in a gym- bad idea. There are people who only climb outside- if you’re going one extreme, I’d do that. Listen, gyms are an asset to the community- it’s easy to get started, they are great for training and introducing people to the sport, but on a very real level going climbing at the gym is like riding a stationary bike in your bedroom. Outside the rock feels different, the experiance is all consuming and you are a full participant. Did I mention it’s totally easier to give up on a plastic wall where you can just walk two steps to a new one instead of being fifty feet in the air with no place to go? Well- as the queen of giving up, I assure you, being outside is much better.
I recently read a fantastic article about being a climbing mom. You can read it here: Eight Confessions of a Climbing Mom. Through Just Mommies, the site I also blog for, an online mom community, I do a “Adventure Hippie Mommy Group” for outdoor adventure minded mom’s. Join us to talk more about either your recent adventures or questions you have. You can access the group here and through the link in my sidebar. You can also email me at sarahnicolelemon@gmail.com. If you live within traveling distance of New River Gorge, WV, Great Falls, VA or The Gunks, NY and you are a mom interested in climbing- I might be available for a climbing trip. Babies are allowed! Hey, we’ll make it work…
Climb on.
