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Our cat was a homeless cat when we got him we have had him for 6 yrs and he's 7 .
I keep on wondering if our vet is doing it the wrong way as I read online 30-40 minutes with insertion of a needle to draw urine out or catheter as they say they don't do that as that only reaches the top tract not bottom and lower one if he has stones/crystals are found in lower catch.
They having him in a kennel on nothing,with food/water and empty litter box. They said they can't use litter as it needs to be like he peed in a cup.
They also don't have him laying on anything in there except the kennel floor because they want him to use the box.
I'm not a vet so I don't know as it's like I'm feeling this is not a good situation for our cat and am afraid he's thinking he's being abdanoned as he staying there until he goes pee which he hasn't gone pee at all like more than 24 hrs and it don't seem like he's eating/drinking there.
I'm thinking of just to go back and get him tomorrow if he hasn't peed there and see about doing the catch myself.
So I would need advice as our cat really sits when he pees.
IMO you need to leave him at the vet utnil the test is complete. They know what they're doing and he's not a person so no he doesn't feel abandoned because animals don't have that type of response like humans. He may not be thrilled, and if he doesn't drink then they will probably give him Subq fluids in order to move the process along as well as keep him from being dehydrated (although you will have to pay for that). If you're concerned you may want to bring up the idea of the Sub Q fluids. That way he really won't have a choice but to urinate as he will be full of fluids and eventually he will be forced to. If the collection they are seeking is not one that they put a catheter in, then their approach sounds reasonable to me. But to move the process along I'd probably push for and pay for the sub Q's that way he can come home sooner and they will have gotten what they need. Also canned food instead of dry can help it along too because the dry food soaks up a lot of their hydration.
I know this is an older post but thought id give some insight as ive worked in the feild for the past 6 years.
When attempting to get urine from a cat we will first try and do a cysto. This involves placing a needle into the bladder and extracting urine. We usually always try this option first, if the owners give permission. This is probably uncomfortable but it does not seem painful. Most cats are very frightened coming to the vet but when placed in position and the needle is inserted, most do not move or howl as if they are in pain. I know this process seems awful, (Would i want a large needle put through my stomach into my bladder - Heck no!) but its a quick, easy method. Sometimes the cats bladder is not full enough and we just cannot extract urine.
We will then ask to keep the cat for observation and hope that he/she will pee while with us. We will place the cat in a cozy kennel with a litterbox and No Sorb pellets. Cats like to have something to dig so these pellets give the allusion that its a normal litterbox. The urine is not absorbed and we are able to syringe up the urine. We will sometimes administer fluids to help the process so the cat can produce urine.
And then there are occasions that neither of these options work. At one of my clinics, we have urine kits we have owners go home with which includes an aluminum pan, the pellets and a syringe and testing tube for you to place the urine for you to drop it off.
A simple and cheaper option is to buy an aluminam baking pan from price chopper and use popcorn kernels as the litter replacement. ask the vet for a syringe (usually they wont charge you for them) and you can place the urine sample in a tupaware container.